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The Capital

Wednesday 11th October, 2000

Modern European

22 Basil Street,

Price per head: £140
Nearest tube: Knightsbridge (Piccadilly Line)

The Capital Restaurant, located in the heart of Knightsbridge, is one of just a handful of London restaurants to hold a coveted Michelin star.

Eric Chavot, the Head Chef, has a following across five continents. His innovative style of cooking which is acclaimed by many restaurant critics seemed to have an off night when we visited. In the words of AA Gill, Sunday Times columnist, "This is as good as you can eat in London." I DISAGREE.

The small and discrete dining room is very much in need of a makeover, as at present it's dull and lifeless in the evening.

Four of us went for dinner to celebrate Joseph's birthday. We started in the bar with four glasses of Champagne. They threw in some chicken satay and cheesy puffs to go with it. The barman was one of the most friendly I've come across in a London establishment.

We perused the menu while at the bar. Nobody fancied the £60 degustation menu.

All starters were £18, main courses were £22, and puddings £9. Coffee and petits fours for a fiver.

Our starters took some time to arrive and so we managed to get through quite a lot of bread. Oh yes, and two bottles of gewurztraminer.

Our starters:-

The was a sizeable delay between courses which gave the bread boy plenty of opportunity to revisit our table. He was in no small danger as our rabbit eater tends to enjoy a bit of chicken. Much bread was consumed.

Our mains, accompanied by a bottle of Torres:-

One of the French waiters could have minced less and attended more; too camp for comfort, although that's an issue for personal taste I'm sure. The sommelier (Matthew from Adelaide) was charming and dishy to the point I wanted to get his number. Tres sexy.

Our puddings, accompanied by a selection of pudding wines:-

After our coffee + petits fours we retired to the bar.

The enthusiastic Scotsman behind the bar served us Amaretto, 25 year old Macallan, and two 10 year old Taliskers.

All in all I'd sum up by saying The Capital is very traditional, very expensive. The food was good, but lacked that certain something, the venue needs a bit of sparkle, the service didn't quite cut the mustard. Little things let them down - we all had to swap plates for both the starters and the main courses - no big deal, but not Michelin standard!

Something else that's not Michelin standard was the lack of towels in the gents, which were terribly in need of being spruced up. I mentioned this to the concierge, but when I returned later there were no clean towels again.

Our bill for four including service was £556.98 ==> £140 per head. Guess who won't be rushing back?

Here's a sample a la carte menu from The Capital:-

£18.00


£22.00


£9.00

Coffee and petits fours

£5.00

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